ஷான் 
உதே 
 Shaan
Uday 
    
சிந்தனை துணுக்குகள்  1 

Jan 2021
எனது சில சிந்தனைகள்
சிறு வரிகளில்


Travel Memoir
Bangkok to Singapore
Backpacking
Shaan Uday
Uploaded
Dec 2014
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This is all about my first-ever overland journey travelling solo, crossing cities, towns and borders by taking trains, buses and on foot, depriving myself of all comforts of airborne travel.

Firstly, I flew to Bangkok by air. Then I journeyed through overland until I ended up in Singapore, having covered 1900 km / 1160 miles. In between my departure and arrival, 12 days were spared in Bangkok, Surat Thani, Hat Yai, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.

To make it simple and safe, to grasp what it would be to be a road traveller and to dry run for the many to come, I chose some countries where I had already been several times before by air. This was tiny, not as huge as many explorations that had already been made by many enthusiastic full-time travellers who were always on the move. Still, at that time, it was tremendously huge for me.

Days: 12
Distance: 1900 km / 1160 miles
Countries: 3
Borders: 2
Un-Manned Borders: 0
Stopovers: 5
Trains: 2
Busses: 2

Day Date Details
1-3
Fri, 19th
Sat, 20th
Sun, 21st
Three Days in Bangkok, THAILAND
4 Mon, 22nd 1st Leg: Bangkok to Surat Thani, THAILAND
5 Tue, 23rd One Day in Surat Thaani
6 Wed, 24th 2nd leg: Surat Thani to Hat Yai, THAILAND
7-8 Thu, 25th
Fri, 26th
Two Days in Hat Yai
9 Sat, 27th 3rd leg: Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur
(Border crossing to Malaysia)
10 Sun, 28th One Day in Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA
11 Mon, 29th 4th leg: Kuala Lumpur to Singapore
(Border crossing to Singapore)
12 Tue, 30th One Day in Singapore
13 Wed, 31st Departed Singapore


I've always found crossing borders by land to be rewarding. Although I had done this a few times in Europe, found no excitement due to Europe's open borders policy. There is no physical border control in place in Europe apart from the one between Britain and France.

It looked very straightforward at the beginning. But there were some small challenging things. In many occasions during the process of preparation, negativity arose and pushed me back. There were excitements as well as worries about few uncertainties ahead. I started wondering ‘What Am I getting myself into?’, 'Will there be safe places to stay?', 'Will it be safe for a solo traveller?' and concerns ranged from the availability of standard amenities to doubts over whether my vegetarian diet could be catered for, especially where I find an abundance of non-veg stuff. Boredom was another one of them.

Since I decided to venture on this journey, I spent three full months reading lots on solo travelling, amazed by the people who had already been on many less-travelled corners. I slowly became more and more attracted to the idea of going nowhere and without having a clue where to sleep, what to eat and where to piss.

During these three months of research, all the negative thoughts were given reasonable attention and dismissed with careful planning. With huge help from Google maps, every corner that came along the journey had been viewed, studied and given full attention, so I wasn’t expecting anything that would hinder my progress. Even so, countless hours of research can only do so much against the uncertainties hiding from your wide opened eyes and ears. Despite being planned, there would undoubtedly be many surprises. Therefore, I set out expecting the unexpected.

I also started improving my physical strength. I began to take my bicycle out more than before, even to buy curry leaves at the corner shop, sometimes making the long way back home from work. Even while walking, avoided all shortcuts and took bus routes, happily watching many buses pass through.

Visa arrangements would be probably the most challenging part of making any trips. Fortunately, all countries those were along the line didn't require visas before the departure for my UK passport.



Day 1,2,3
Fri, 19th / Sat, 20th / Sun, 21st
Three Days in Bangkok, THAILAND
[ Playlist ]

Arrived here in Bangkok at early hours today. As you already know, Thailand is an amazing place to visit. From mouth-watering street food culture, floating markets to Illuminating golden Buddhist temples, all may amaze. But there is a dark side to it.

Nevertheless, no beggars could be seen stretching their hands for handouts, poverty is in existence to a greater degree. Illegally erected street stalls blocking pavements and filling up entire space on railway station platforms are a norm here in Thailand. Numerous stray dogs roaming around injured and diseased. Uncontrollably erected countless statues and banners of the king, made of concrete or plastic sheets, can be seen everywhere. Why so cheap publicity for the king, it cannot be questioned. Beautiful temples of Buddha being built closer to swamps and poverty-stricken souls are living in huts beside. Plastics products are thrown everywhere without any consideration given to nature's well-being.

Thailand is becoming another trash land. And it is a nation of slum dwellers who have been deliberately left out by authorities.

Despite its negative values, Bangkok has a lot to offer. Food, for example, is tastier and cheaper. Locals start their day at very early hours, maybe at 4am, erecting their temporary stalls on the pavements. I, once at 5am, was worried for my cup of tea but amazed to see a tea stall had already been in action at 4am. Thailand was the 9th country I visited.


a Day trip to Pattaya [ Playlist ]
Fri, 19th

It took 2 hours to reach Pattaya from Bangkok by road. It was a pleasant journey. Sadly, Pattaya is becoming a notorious place for some reasons. It changes its daytime colours at dusk. The entire area becomes totally different at night. From freelances to sex brokers can be seen roaming around freely and bargaining. For those who want a decent day out go to Pattaya during day time.


a Day trip to Nam Tok by Death Railway passing River Kwai
[ Playlist ]
Sat, 20th

Bangkok to Nam Tok on Death Railway is one of the things that shouldn't be missed while in Thailand. Nam Tok is a small town. Apart from Sai Yok Noi waterfall, nothing much to see. But the 210 km train journey from Bangkok Thonburi Railway Station passing through Kanchanaburi, crossing the River Kwai bridge, running alongside the scenic River Kwai over the Wampo Viaduct, experience the Death Railway at Tham Krasae Bridge and then to reach Nam Tok are what made all fun.

Unexpectedly, I was there on a Saturday. The train was fully packed with Thai school children. The train was a special tourist railcar for day trippers on weekends and holidays. It had only 3rd class, non-air-con with open windows and wooden seats. The fare was only 200 Bhats. As I could imagine from the amazingly low price, it was mainly aimed at Thai people on day excursions. But it shouldn't put off any as the train is clean and comfortable, apart from toilets. In fact, sitting next to an open window while clickety-clacking through the Thai countryside is the most pleasant way to Nam Tok and back.

There was no meals cart, though food vendors walked up and down the train selling many light snacks. I wasn't prepared, so I ate all that was sold in the train, from boiled eggs to boiled peanuts and raw mangoes sliced and added with salt and chilli powder.


a Day trip to Mahachai Market in Samut Sakhon and Ban Laem by train
[ Playlist ]
Sun, 21st

Visiting Mahachai Market in Samut Sakhon is a half a day trip. It is an added adventure of the travel by train from Wongwian Yai Railway Station for just 10 bhats. Many tourists go further from Samut Sakhon to Mae Khlong Market in Samut Songkhram to experience the trains run within a few inches of the crowded market stalls approaching its terminus at Mae Khlong. Unfortunately, I couldn't make it because I missed the train from Ban Laem Station. When the train passes the market traders replace their canopies, and you'd never know a train track was there.

To go to Ban Laem from Mahachai Market, I cross the Tha Chin river by a ferry paying few coins. The return journey is free. Ban Laem market also similar to Mahachai Market. Mostly run by Vietnamese.



Day 4
Mon, 22nd
The 1st leg
Bangkok to Surat Thani, THAILAND

Duration: 8-9 Hours
Distance: 650kms/400miles
By: Train, Diesel Railcar Express (DRC), No 43
Depart: Hua Lamphong Railway Station
Fare: THB608/£12, 2nd Class + A/C + 1 Meal

The two-car train, departed at scheduled time 08:05. My seat was on an air-conditioned 2nd class. It looked very posh from outside. Unfortunately, once inside, I could only see a worn interior with dimmed lights, which slightly made me uncomfortable.

Unwashed glass windows blocked everything from outside. I couldn't capture all through my viewfinder due to its many days-old patches of dirt on the glass. With permission from the train guard, I went to the rear of the train driver’s compartment and captured as much as I could.

One precooked and warmed up rice and two fish curries, which were part of the ticket fare, served in a sealed plastic container. That was very basic in quality and minimal in quantity for a grown adult. Toilets weren't very amusing either. Poorly maintained interiors, with broken seats. Also, it seemed unsanitised prior to departure or for some time.

In spite of all, this journey amused me. The views were pleasantly sane. Surprisingly, the train arrived at Surat Thani Station around 17:00 hours. It was only 15 minutes late arriving.



Day 5
Tue, 23rd
One Day in Surat Thaani
[ Playlist ]

Surat Thani is a very basic town. From the tourists' point of view, there aren't much happening in this tiny town. Ideal place for those who want to transit to nearby islands. There is no nightlife. I, though, spent several hours roaming around to learn about local life.



Day 6
Wed, 24th
The 2nd leg
Surat Thani to Hat Yai, THAILAND

Duration: 4-5 Hours
Distance: 317kms/197miles
By: Train, Diesel Railcar Express (DRC), No 41
Depart: Surath Thani Railway Station
Fare: THB436/£8.5, 2nd Class + A/C + Meals

Unexpectedly, I had to go through similar experiences I had during my previous journey from Bangkok to Surat Thani. The two-car train remained the same but carried a different no, 41. Meals remained the same pre-cooked and warmed up rice with two fish curries in plastic containers. I enjoyed, though.

It was raining outside, with thunder rumbling and lightning sparking in the sky above, Though, it brought a pleasant atmosphere inside, made me go sleep for several hours, missing many nature’s scenarios that followed.

While wide awake, I witnessed what bad-tempered weather had brought. I could see many flooded fields of brown soils being flushed away, a few yards from the train's tracks. Many people were carrying their belongings over their shoulders and walking along many flooded paths, some were almost drowned to their neck and still moving towards the end. Also, saw a dog very happily swimming beside his human friend.

Luckily, the train was only 50 minutes late arriving Hat Yai Station.



Day 7,8
Thu, 25th / Fri, 26th
Two Days in Hat Yai, Thailand
[ Playlist ]

Hat Yai is the border town to Malaysia. Its interior may not be compared to Bangkok but reasonably a grown city. It is a congested town with narrow pavements. Scooter taxis' allowed me to explore the town for a reasonable fare. There were cowboys to deal with. Hat Yai is a matured town. Shouldn't be compared with Bangkok, but alive day and into late night. Crowded most of the time. Scooter taxis' presence made my journeys so affordable and there were cowboys too to handle.



Sex Tourism in Thailand
What I Witnessed
December 2014

Streets of Bangkok started piling up with smoke emitting automobiles. It was an unpleasant evening. And I was very tired of walking many miles during that day. Also, I didn’t sleep much on the previous night. Sweat had been pouring heavily since that morning through my cheeks.

Read More...



Day 9
Sat, 27th
The 3rd leg
Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA

Duration: 6-7 Hours
Distance: 550kms/340miles
By: Coach
Depart: Hat Yai Station
Fare: RM75/£14

All seemed to be well set when I booked my ticket in London to travel from Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur on a double-decker coach run by Allison Golden Coache (M) SDN BHD. I was allocated a confirmed front middle seat on the upper deck. On the day of travelling, In Hat Yai, I was told, that my booked seat couldn't be given due to some changes in the schedule. Instead of a double-decker, the manager of the services said, he only got single-deckers and rudely asked me whether I want it or not. Learning that the train from Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur will only leave at 16:30 and reach KL 06:00 following day, I had no other choice but to accept the offer. So I ended up on a single-decker, that left 1 hour late.

The difference in the fare, between the double-decker and the single-decker, wasn't taken into a discussion or refunded, I just carried on travelling, thinking that could be sorted out with the firm which first booked me in London. When in London I didn’t bother too much about making it an issue. Therefore, I warn anyone that you could be thrown off some changes, favourable or unfavourable to you.

The clean and air-conditioned bus sadly self-contained slow running WI-FI, at least, allowed me to boastfully timeline my whereabouts on Facebook.

I got irritated for the driver’s occasional usage of mobile phones and consuming refreshments while at the wheel. Regardless, it was a non-smoking bus, and a warning notice was well visibly displayed, smoke from his cigarets freely filled the air-conditioned bus which didn’t bother any but me. In addition to this, The front glass of the bus was mounted with many hangings, blocking all beautiful front view, annoyed me further.

On the bus, I managed to find some buddies of Malaysian residency, gave me plenty of time to boast about my little adventure. In the end, only to learn that they also had done stuff greater than mine.

Make sure your bladder is unloaded before the departure. Due to the language barriers and many other time-keeping requirements, your requests for any such emergencies won’t necessarily be taken into consideration. Even If those were considered, you would only be allowed at their normal breakpoint, Thai border.


Border Crossing to Malaysia

This is the first ever border crossing on foot. Thai border is about an hour drive or 60miles away from Hat Yai town. I would recommend you should carry water and food. There was a restaurant at the Thai border. But, the bus didn’t stay long enough for me to finish my meal. The driver almost left without me. Luckily my neighbouring passenger curious enough to alarm the driver when I wasn't found on my seat. There was no counter implemented in this bus.


Entering Malaysia through Thailand Passport Control wasn't so pleasant to start with. We were asked to go to the counter No 9 to sort out our immigration when the bus arrived at the passport control. After queueing up for more than 15 minutes, I was told by the female officer at the counter No 9 to go to counter No 2. She looked at me first and flipped through the pages hurriedly then looked at me again before she saying "2". When I asked her why "2", she repeatedly said "2". I thought I was, as a UK passport holder, had joined the other nationals, went and joined the queue at counter No 2. It took another 20 minutes before I reached the counter to get my visa stamped. While inside the bus one of the befriended Malaysian said everything would have gone sane if I had left a small monetary treat, at least 5 Ringgits, with the passport when it was handed in at the counter 9, as he did.

The Malaysian immigration part was the smoothest of all borders I crossed. I got off the bus with my luggage, let it through the security check, collected on the other side and went to the counter. It took just thirteen minutes from bus to bus. Visa officers neither were polite nor tough. They just took the passport, stamped the visa and handed over to me.

There was a restaurant in a mile or so once we were into the Malaysian territory. We managed to reach this point only at dusk. The prices of food were reasonably set, and I managed to pay by Thai Bhat which only I had. We were asked to eat plenty and eliminate any from our bowels before boarding at this break because of the next break could only be found after 3-4 hours of driving.

During the journey that covered the highway to KL, I was sleeping, unaware of exactly what was passing by.

The driver managed to reach at Pudu Raya bus terminal in Kuala Lumpur at 23:00, claiming the jammed traffic near Hat Yai caused the delay. Luckily my hotel, Arena Star, was just a few meters away from where I got off. Slightly cursing them, I just went to the hotel and ended my day without eating.

In spite of all those negative experiences, travelling from Hat Yai to KL by bus could only be taken, if you aren't willing to travel by train in nights. There are no direct trains from Hat Yai to Kuala Lumpur leaving in the early hours. Though I didn't enjoy the journey, I would happily add this to my learned knowledge. If any of my future journeys happened to be along this path, I would choose trains.



Day 10
Sun, 28th
One Day in Kuala Lumpur, MALAYSIA

Though I visited a couple of times previously to Kuala Lumpur, It failed to attract me for many reasons. This time, as a solo traveller, roamed around to see whether anything could capture my eyes that could make a life-long love towards this city. But still failed. Kuala Lumpur is admirable only for its growth. Once, Malaysia was hugely inferior to Sri Lanka, now pushed Sri Lanka back to the ditch. Luckily, my visit to this part of the land hadn't been received by any souls that I am related to. All were strangers, lucky enough to do whatever I liked. On this two night visits, I just roamed around, took some pictures of concreted landscapes and some unfortunate humans, hopefully waiting for their turn of luck.

Here in KL, excessively priced meals from restaurants are widely available. Street food is the best and cheapest for those who are on a low-budgeted trip. I went to an Indian restaurant and found an uncontrollably overpriced menu being shown. Ate still, for the sake of satisfying my appetite.

Metro services are notable. Gave me a chance to see the city through a different angle. Runs through tracks over and through buildings. A full day on the metro will cover the most part of KL.

Remember, Malaysia is a Muslim nation. Satisfy enough to be a country where moderate Islam is practised. Women, though covered with their headscarf, an accidental glance, from top to toe, may not throw you on to a deathbed.

Tamils, from South India and Sri Lanka, mostly Hindus, could be seen everywhere. They have come, though, originally from India and Sri Lanka, have rooted so deep into the soils of Malaysia, now can't be exhumed. They too want that to be like that. Even Hindu temples with Tamil devotional songs, aired through loudspeakers, could be heard afar. Many streets with Tamil names proved the existence of Tamil's power and influences. Widely spoken English made all of my manoeuvres in Kuala Lumpur trouble-free, yet, Malaysian alphabets shown on road signs and banners constructed from Latin scripts made me uncomfortable. Thought that they should have had their own symbols for the language Malay. This only proved the dominance of the western world. Also, there are a considerable number of Chinese expatriates living in KL, mingled with all other South East Asians.



Day 11
Mon, 29th
The 4th leg
Kuala Lumpur to Singapore

Duration: 4-5 Hours
Distance: 350kms/215miles
By: Coach
Depart: Puduraya Bus Station
Fare: S$30/£5.5

To start with, the bus didn’t depart from Pudu Raya Bus terminal, Kuala Lumpur where it should have been. I had to look for the exact bus by showing my tickets to every bus lined up outside the bus terminal. It was supposed to be starting from platform 15 at Pudu Raya Bus terminal. Also, the bus that was shown on the booking site wasn't the one that was allocated. I might have wasted quite a lot of time to settle myself with this scenario. Double deckers can’t enter into the terminal due to the low height of the terminal. If you book for a double-decker expect that to be away from the terminal.

The journey didn’t give any excitements though it was a safe and pleasant through well-laid highways. Stopped only at one place for a break.


Border Crossing to Singapore

Further, adding insult to injury, we all were dropped off in Johor Bahru, a far south city of Malaysia, near the border of Singapore and were given local bus ticket to get ourselves self-transferred to the departure terminal, without any explanation what so ever. Many non-locals, including me, were confused with the arrangements. When we demanded an explanation as to why the bus was terminated here in Johor Bahru, rather than Beach Road in Singapore, which should have been the promised terminus, the supply was a silence.

When I asked the same question to the transit bus driver, he said that the bus would wait for the passengers outside the terminal and take us to Beach Road in Singapore.

Unfortunately, as I was suspecting, that wasn't the case. The bus wasn't to be found on the other side of the border, Singapore and we all had only one option, that is to find our own means of transport to wherever we were booked in.

Me, expecting to be dropped off in Beach road, which is just walking distance from my booked hotel, didn’t bother to learn how to go from the arrival terminal of Singapore to my hotel. Luckily, while queuing up at the arrival terminal, I befriended a Singaporean, who was standing in front of me, gave enough info for me to reach my hotel from the terminal.

Now I regret, for not taking any of three trains coming towards Singapore. In my opinion, the bus ride from KL to Singapore should be anyone's final option.

Accomodation in Singapore [ Video ]

Aljunied isn't an ideal place for any excitements for which this to be dotted on your itinerary. It happened to me because the bus from Kuala Lumpur supposed to be terminating closer to this area. So I thought it would be an ideal place to lodge and managed to find a secured place. Unexpectedly, Aljunied located exactly in the centre between Changi Airport and the Financial centre of Singapore. Due to this only 15 minutes of travel time took to reach on either side on MRT line. There is a station in Aljunied which connects to all the MRT lines of Singapore. Also, there are many restaurants run by English speaking Vietnamese cater for a low budgeted backpackers.



Day 12
Tue, 30th
One Day in Singapore
[ Playlist ]

Little India [ Video ]

The area along Serangoon Road is where Little India located. As correctly named, it is populated mostly by southern Indians, taking a greater portion of Tamils. It could be easily covered by foot in a few hours. To have a tasty Indian meal, both veg and non-veg, this is the place to visit. Sri Veeramakaliamman temple and many Indian garment outlets located here. When you walk along Little India during the festival season, you may think that you were placed somewhere in Chennai, India. There are two North-East MRT line stations nearby, Little India and Farrer Park. Bugis station on the East-West line is also within walking distance. This is a Sunday evening hanging out area for Tamil workers of Tamil Nadu, India. Mostly a safe area to be during those hours but heavy police presence tells a different story. The 24hour Mustafa Center located in this road where you could buy many items from jewellery to any household items.

Explore Singapore on Hop on Busses [ Video ]

The most asiest and the cheapest way to explore Singapore is to hopping onto any local buses and trains and just take yourself up to the last stop using a Tourist Pass costing $16(Singaporean Dollars) with $10 deposit which would be refunded if it is returned before the end of the 5th day of purchase.

Metro and the way it is run isn't much different to the London Underground. Bought a day pass and hopped on and hopped off at many stations as I liked.

Else, hop onto roofless hop-on buses. There were three buses going in different directions. It had 24-hour validity and allowed me to use the same ticket to hop onto all three buses exploring Singapore for 6 long hours. Only one thing I missed on these busses was that I didn't get a chance to soak up myself with their local life, missing out all events that should have been seen. On the hop on buses, you only see tourists on package holidays and concrete landscapes.


Roaming Around Singapore [ Video ]

Woke up early that day and just started roaming around to feel Singaporeans' way of doing things, and I at 12noon ended up in the China Town. As the name suggests China Town fully dominated by Chinese. China Town is located near China Town MRT Station on North East Line.


Marang Trail [ Video ]

After several days of not breathing oxygen, went to Marang Trail for a day of fresh air. Marang Trail extends from Marang Road, just behind the Harbourfront MRT Station to the top of Mount Faber, covering less than a kilometre and take about 15 minutes to reach the summit. Once reached, I was treated with a beautiful panoramic view of the harbour, the cable car and the southern islands. Once inside more than 4-5 km of walking amongst grown trees and bushes with beautiful sceneries are on the plate. It was extremely easy to find directions as there were signs and markings on the pavement.



Day 13
Wed, 31st
Departed Singapore

This was the final leg of my Bangkok to Singapore overland Journey. Just walked around at the Duty-Free Shop at Changi Airport [Video] while waiting for the flight to Colombo. It looked very posh. All outlets were lined up on the ground level and some good restaurants were on the upper level. Free WI-FI was also available for passengers waiting for the flight.

All is well. Departed Singapore by air with a heavy heart. I want to do another one very soon. Must be more prominent than this with four or less like-minded folks. Ate fish and egg for survival. Walked about 150km. Put on weight, though. Blame white rice for that. Felt sorry for arguing with tuk-tuk drivers in Thailand. Must have given whatever they asked. Poor fellows. Good that there were no known people from those countries I visited. Otherwise, it wouldn't have been challenging. Now, I feel complete.

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