No written words can adequetly express my feelings towards many mesmazing movements I encountered in this group of islands by constantly riding 7 days in a hired scooter. The food, breeze, heat, stretched roads and many other tiny amusements were the few that still, after many weeks since departure, delight me.

I had no other choice but to ignore and lie to everyone about my notorious scooter journey in Jaffna Isles. I told them that I would just wander around only in Jaffna town and a few miles surrounding. No one was given a clue as to what I had in my mind. Letting them know about my exploration prior to departure might have caused uneasiness, for sure.

As far as they were concerned, Jaffna still hadn't become a place of peace. An incident of rape in Pungudutivu, a few gang-related fights in Manipay and the presence of numerous defence camps in Jaffna Isles were sufficient for them to discourage or suspend any travel plans to Jaffna.

Armed with many lies and a hidden agenda, I managed to jump on to my brother-in-law's car, while he was on a business trip, and got myself transported to a 3-star hotel in Jaffna. Once I was left alone in my tiny room, I stripped off my fictitious innocence and repossessed my true devilish ideas of exploring all Jaffna Islands on a scooter, solo, with the prospect of seeing Jaffna and its neighbouring islands through an eye of an outsider.

I managed to get the pre-arranged scooter from Jaffna town on arrival and kept it for the entire 7-day period of my stay. Every morning I just took my scooter and rode aimlessly. When I considered riding, I needn't worry too much about roads because the gradient of those roads didn't rise or fall sharply. Majority of roads were neatly done, though, few were rough, uneven and full of potholes. But all ran in a flat plain, straight and on fairly easy bends. There were no hairpin bends or unexpected turns. A scooter was sufficient rather a heavy motorcycle. There were eight roads ran from central Jaffna. Each took me to a different direction from Jaffna Island. Two roads, A9 and A32, connected me to the south. Three roads (Point Pedro Road, Palaly Road, KKS Road) connected to north and northeast. Manipay Road and Araly Road took me to Karainagar Island located in the west. Then Pannai Kayts Road through Pannai causeway took me to Kayts in the west and to all islands.

Few minutes of riding away from the town of Jaffna brought the rural atmosphere. Many long stretched open space with paddy fields, and underpopulated zones could be seen. Beauty is in abundance in all Jaffna Isles. Though there were so many tourists hotspots for a visit, just riding along on those nicely paved long roads gave me tremendous pleasure.

The most beautiful scenery is what I saw down at Pannai causeway. A pure blue sky with white clouds carelessly running at the fore, sun playing a hide and seek amongst those clouds, showing himself occasionally, and then the white rays of the sun hitting the surface of the planet creating a magnitude of colours and giving a three-dimensional texture to the surface, WOW, all could be admired.

I might have admiringly ridden through 80% of the roads that gave me such pleasure. When I encountered junctions, I just got off and took a mouth-watering traditional meal or sundries of many kinds, washing it down with a freshly brewed coffee or tea and continued for another spot to experience the same taste. I might have drunk 50+ coffee/tea and eaten around 100+ Vadai or Rolls(deep fried snacks) during my 7-day stay. That was too much I guess now.

There are 15 islands in the north including Jaffna Island. They all are fairly on a flat plain. Some are habitable, and some are not due to its shallowness. Amongst the habitable islands Mandaitivu, Velanaitivu, Pungututivu, Naduturitti, Kurikattuvan and Karaitivu (Karainagar) are reachable by causeways but Kachchativu, Neduntivu, Nainativu, Analaitivu, Puliyantivu, Parititivu and Eluvaitivu can only be reached by boats from nearby islands. I manage to set my foot on all six islands that are connected by a causeway and five other islands by boat. Since there are no residences in Parititivu, there are no passenger boards to this island. Due to its far distance, I didn't dare to go to Kachchativu. All these islands are very basic in set up, but all nature's values and hospitability are well preserved. At a glance, the interiors of all islands may look the same, but there are many unique features that differ from each other. Though I faintly learnt that uniqueness, I should have needed a more extended stay to observe more.

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Jaffna Island

Fifteen years had passed since my last visit to Jaffna. On all of my seven previous visits, I had only been in Jaffna and its surrounding hotspots with some restricted family gatherings. The first minute I slipped into Jaffna territory I felt the same smell of the dry dust I smelt many years back. Jaffna welcomed me with its own singularity. Once settled down at my accommodation just popped out to the town to see the changes I missed in the last 15 years. Changes have occurred surely. There are now many 3 or 4-star hotels in here, and many international banks have set their foot firmly. Roads are done with the aid given by many foreign nations. A greater number of International education establishments have mushroomed too. Also, scooters are heavily taken over the roads. Bicycles once were the only means of transport for many, are now left for a few oldies.

In my opinion, whether it is politically correct or not, Jaffna Penisula has become an island. My curious eyes spotted, on google maps, a small piece of land in Chundikulam in the east has been washed away by the sea and opened up to the west side of the sea. Now the Indian Ocean cuts through Jaffna and the mainland of Sri Lanka, making Jaffna an island. Had this been done deliberately or naturally is unknown. It could have been LTTE who wants to cut off the Sri Lankan advancements from north to the LTTE control zone or maybe vice versa. Its just my opinion rose from my unspeakable imagination.

I woke up at wee hours on the first morning and just wandering around in the maze of avenues of Jaffna. The chilly breeze of Jaffna was so sensational during those moments. It was due to the month nearing the December cold season. The Bells of many temples from afar could be heard, though faintly, adding holiness. Jaffna too wakes up very early. In the town, restaurants were already opened at 5am. I was expecting many blaring devotional and Tamil movie songs from all levels, but could not be heard. Instead, a Sinhala shop had its volume blared uncontrollably with songs of Sinhala lyrics. Jaffna has changed for sure.

At dusk, the spectacular sunset was there from Pannai Causeway. Then I walked around the town. Excessively brightened ceiling lights of restaurants were still on business. A vibrant voice of Tamil local radio broadcast from Jaffna bus station we heard many years back was missing now. Instead, a few outlets with blaring Sinhala songs still could be heard. They were tirelessly being broadcasted since that morning. Daytime noises from the roads have soothed down very much now. Many people cannot be seen around. Bus stops are queued by few home-returners. Jaffna retires around 9ish. Then stray dogs and tranquillity take over. Low frequently scheduled bus services could be heard running or seen on major roads along with some two or three wheelers. Passers-by are almost none.

Hindu temples are scattered all over the North, one in every mile or so. Churches, Viharas and Mosques too could be found. Due to the geographical location and the colourful annual celebrations, Nallur Kandasamy Kovil stands out. Entry to these temples is only allowed for men who are prepared to strip off their tops(remove their shirts). Women are only allowed fully clothed but could be colourfully decorated. Men are expected to wear Veshty(a white sarong). Photography is prohibited. Those restrictions didn't appeal to me very much. So I stayed out, never bothered to get in.

Poobalasingham Bookshop is the largest, and it is dominant in the selling of books for many years here in Jaffna.

Visiting the local markets were some of my priorities and I made sure I spent a few hours there. In the vegetable and fruit section, I found the farmer himself selling without the interference of a middleman. Any vegetable and fruits sold in these places are all organic. Never missed fruits of Jaffna. Tried each of them. I might have gone into as many as 10 markets on the island and still feel insufficient.

Food is ample and cheap. I didn't want to miss anything out there that was on the plate. Had many meals within the two-hour gap. Neelaampari Unavagam, Hotel Rolex, Jetwing Hotel, Green Grass Restaurant and Mangos Indian Veg Restaurant are the best. Many restaurants carry the word "HOTEL", and "CAFE" in their name board, which here in Jaffna (and in many parts of Sri Lanka) are not actually hotels with rooms and cafes are not really coffee shops but all eating places and restaurants. Almost all eating places catered the same kind of food, but a uniqueness was there. Hygienic wise they can be trusted and eaten without any fear of catching bugs. There is no street food culture in Jaffna. You must eat from an eating house. Grabbed an ice cream at Rio Ice Cream Parlor and enjoyed it while riding along.

The northernmost tip of Sri Lanka is Sakkotai, located in Pont Pedro, is worth a visit.

Getting out on a scooter and exploring villages in the early hours, in particular, was very spectacular. Fresh rays of the sun slicing through the clouds and then streaming through open paddy fields, towering palmyrah trees, dense bushes and rural detached houses with fences made of palmyrah leaves, creating many shades of green, yellow and gold, all could be encountered. There were so many eating places on every corner I steered, and I tasted all the foods that were on offer. There were so many breathtaking views as well lying in every part of these islands. There were many scenic roads, I never thought that they existed here. Some roads were so lonely, I found no one but only me and my shadow there. In the east of Jaffna when I was riding, I never met another soul on the road for more than 30 miles of riding. There were so much similar happenings to cover.

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Round Trip 1
Jaffna > Sangupiddy Causeway > Pooneryn > Paranthan > Killinochchi > Elephant Pass > Jaffna

This was a very lonely road stretched to 134km. Once passed the beautiful Sangupiity Causeway, the very first town to reach is Pooneryn.

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Karaitivu (Karainagar)

Walking shortest distance: 7.4km

There are two sandy beaches on this island, Casuana Beach and Kovalam Beach.

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Eluvaitivu (எழுவைதீவு)

Eluvaitivu is the nearest island to the main Jaffna Island. The length of the island is only 3.5 km. The ferry departed kannagai Amma Jetty as it was to Analaitivu. It was only a half an hour journey from the jetty to jetty. Also, another half an hour was sufficient to have a ride to the end of the island. There was heavy rain while the boat was going towards the island. I was expecting that to calm down a bit but continued even after arriving in the island. Eluvaitivu is an island of palm trees that grow very high. Due to the rain, I couldn't shoot from my head camera while riding. Every time when I had a few minutes of a gap of raining I managed a ride into the island and had to get myself under the shelter when the rain reappeared.

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Analaitivu and Puliyantivu

The ferry for both Analaitivu and Puliyantivu Islands and Eluvaitivu, must be taken from the jetty located near Kannagai Amman Kovil in Kayts. The jetty is widely known as Kannagai Amman Jetty. It is not signposted anywhere to the ferry terminal. I came to Kayts junction area and then followed the instruction given by the locals.

Analaitivu is only around 4.5km length.

Puliyantivu is attached to the bottom of Analaitivu which can be reached by a few meters of sandy or muddy(in rain season) causeway. Apart from two temples and a few dwellings nothing more located here in Puliyantivu. There is a pier at the southern end which is used only by the SL Navy. The main sandy road from the entrance of the island to the jetty is only about 1km. It is worth a ride to the jetty.

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Nainnativu

Nainativu is a prominent destination for Hindus due to the existence of the Nainativu Naga Pooshani Ambal Kovil located here in the entrance of the island. Then it is celebrated amongst Buddhists too for the Nagadeepa Temple located next to the Hindu temple. On a nonfestive day, this island attracts more than 500 pilgrims per day, I was told by a person standing by. The ferry from Kurikattuvan jetty frequently leaves to both temples. If a greater number of Buddhists found on the boat, then the boat stops first at Nagadeepa Temple jetty and goes to Naga Pooshani Ambal Kovil jetty, otherwise vice-versa.

The length of the island is only 3 miles (5km), could be easily walked around within 3 hours. I managed to transport my scooter for Rs100(£0.40) one way on the ferry and completed the round journey in an hour. The Island is underpopulated. Many cultivable areas are unattended and wasted. A gentleman I met said this island was producing enough onions for the entire Sri Lankan consumption many years back. Sadly now many people have moved away, and lands are left to become a thriving region for many wild plants. In one corner of the island, I found a dump yard very close to the shore, pulling in many plastic materials into the sea. As expected many religious places for all religions are well set here in this tiny Island. Though there is no Sinhala settlement yet, I was told, there is a significant growth of Muslim settlements. Many new holiday homes with long concrete driveways are built by many expatriates on many world standards are here too. These houses left locked and unoccupied for many months. Sadly standing beside some hut-like houses belong to locals. It honestly didn't look right to me.

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Mandaitivu (மண்டைதீவு)

distance 6.6 km

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Kayts Island

distance 16.5 km The beautiful Chatti Beach located on this island. Not very crowded and I was alone there.

The speciality of this road is that all islands could be reached through this road.

Kannagai Amman Jetty located here in this island. Click here to see the video how to reach Kannagai Amman Jetty for boats going to Analaitivu, Eluvaitivu and Puliyantivu.

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Pungudutivu

distance 8km

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Naduturiti Island, Kurikattuvan Island and Kurikattuvan Jetty

Walking shortest distance: 800m

Naduturiti Island is a vast land nothing much happens apart from a huge cultivation private land.

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Neduntivu (Delft Island)

A full day was in demand for a thorough exploration in this tremendously beautiful island. It is the farthest island from all other islands and bit isolated. The length of the island is only 14.8 km.

The ride to the jetty from Jaffna town itself in that early chilly hours was an astonishing experience. Some part of the road was cutting through the sea also was a bonus. I woke up early hours and rode through almost empty roads from Jaffna town, with many occasional stops for admirations, to the jetty to catch the ferry at 08:00am. I was first in the queue, and when reached I was told the ferry has no room for my scooter since it only accommodates passengers. The boat service is a Navy-run passenger-only ferry. My request in Sinhala to the Sinhala Navy officer was politely rejected. I then had to wait for the 9:30am ferry. Early arrival to the jetty won't be boredom since there were so many other things around for admiration.

It took 45 Minutes from Kurikattuvan(KKD) jetty in Kurikattuvan island to reach Neduntivu. I managed to get my scooter transported on the ferry came at 9:30. It was goods only ferry, but though carried many Neduntivu residents.

Neduntivu is a dream island for those who wanted to be left alone. Unfortunately, I was restricted with only 4 hours as I was expected to return to the jetty for the departure at 2:30pm.

The island is small in size but too big to explore by foot. Dutch colonial presence is still evident here even after their departure, around 330 years ago. A few colonial buildings in all levels of disrepair. Places of interest are the Baobab Tree, the Growing Rock, and the many white sandy beaches spots.

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Departing Jaffna

Bringing the jam-packed days to an end was the saddest part of all. This was my first road journey on a scooter. Roaming around in a motorbike or a scooter is more preferable and appealing to me now.

Jaffna islands are indisputably a Tamilian populous area, and Jaffna is the cultural capital for the entire Tamilian community of Sri Lanka. There were many kingdoms of Tamilians during the monarchical era before many invasions of the western world. Many archaeological remains proved that. Almost all now were destroyed intentionally by invaders continuously arrived from the west. The last remained proof in the form of historical Tamilian manuscripts was burned down by some well-organised hooligans. The cultural inheritance is the only one remaining that continues to keep Jaffna a Tamilian zone. Though, Indian influences are at present deliberately diverting the Tamil community away from the unique culture they possess by introducing many Indian extravaganzas. Indian government's continuous brainwashing has successfully worked well with this community. Tamilians have become good consumers for all Indian based commodities, services, entertainments and most importantly their religious garbage in the form of godmen. They can be easily fooled into or bought into an ideology that is low in status and importance.

Though the Tamilian community in Sri Lanka is capable of achieving higher academical proficiency, they are illiberal in many aspects. Atheism is almost zero in Tamilian society and remaining minute community of atheist are taken as abnormal. Also, anybody who possesses an eager for any adventure is treated as time wasters. A vast number of them are superstitious, God-dependent and believe in super miracles in almost all future happenings. Astrology and Palmistry are regularly being considered for many days to day decisions, even for leaving home. Tamils of Sri Lanka have their own social issues. The caste system is the biggest drawback.

All Tamilians were once Shaivites following Saivam conducting the rituals in Tamil. Then some superior influences in India grouped Saivam, Vaishanavam, Upanishad, Saktha, Ganabakthiya and many other small groups of beliefs and brought all under Hinduism. Eventually, the language Sanskrit was replaced in place of Tamil. In due course, northern Indian gods started taking up their positions in Sri Lankan Saiva temples. Many Hindu temples scattered all around here in the North reflect this. Then came Dutch and Portuguese to convert those Hindus to Catholics, and British brought Christianity. Then Arabic traders came and converted many to Muslims. There are no Tamil Buddhists or Sinhala Hindus in Sri Lanka, but there is a disputable believe amongst Tamils and Sinhalese that Siddharth Gautam(Buddha) is the reincarnation of Lord Vishnu. This belief could have been established to calm down the freakish atmosphere lasted between both communities for many centuries both in India and Sri Lanka.

North Sri Lanka was once a world away from the rest of Sri Lanka. All western tourists who visited Sri Lankan were not given a chance to expose to this tremendously beautiful zone. Now Sri Lankan Tamilian expatriates are making it a tourist destination and bringing many westerners along with them. Also, 30 years of the civil war has given Jaffna a unique identity to the international community.

All those saddest part of history has now been successfully swept under the carpet. We expatriates, who are now visiting the most Tamilian populous part of Sri Lanka pretend that nothing had happened since and enjoy the most available pleasures.

The best thing I encountered here in the North of Sri Lank is the breeze, open spaces and food. The food, though it carried the same variety of food that of Tamil Nadu, India, had a unique aroma.

Driving and parking are the easiest tasks here. Ample spaces were available at every corner I turned.

Apart from Jaffna town, many areas are still largely unmodernized. The destruction of the civil war is still evident. The people who lived here during economic blockage were the backbone of the raise-land. And they are bouncing back without losing their Tamil identity.

And finally, Jafna Isles are a good treat for photographers and nature lovers. Come to Jaffna with an open mind and then you will leave nothing but return with a heart full of happiness, satisfaction and knowledge etc.

I always informed my Hotel reception about where I was heading into.

Many houses sadly stood there abandoned and partly destroyed in many parts of all islands. The deep scars of the civil war are still noticeable.

The Army is still in presence, though, none dealing with civilians on their armours. They are stationed in a few places in the north and kept away from locals. But heavily stationed in the Northern Jaffna.

Stray dogs sleeping in the middle of many heavily congested roads without even showing a sign of any remorse are a common sight here in all islands. Some who were widely awaken barked at passers for no reason but leaving all cyclists and motorists unharmed. Motorists are the one must manoeuver to avoid them.

Plastic bags, containers, bottles are littered in many beautiful landscapes even in churches and temples lands. Along coastal roads are the area becoming dump yard. Inbetween statues of gods all religions, litter are the norm. Not only plastics but rotten veg and non-veg cooked and uncooked gave food heaven for stray dogs.

Stray dogs faeces were there on your path too. I did keep my foot on it at least a couple of times.

The worst part of life is being illiterate or being refuse to stay illiterate. There were notices on the wall suggesting an environmental and health catastrophic of these dumps, but it was sure the fly-tippers ignored it, and even some notices were torn down.

I had only seven days so maximising the time by drawing up itinerary was compulsory. Still, I couldn't accommodate all in my initial 7-day break. I still needed more days to get deep down into history and culture. Due to short of time, I had no other choice but to pack-up leaving some behind.

No begging due to the influx of money poured in by expatriates. No prostitution. No clubbing.
beauty is in abundance.
can be compared with the Maldives and Hong Kong.
Carrying the camera puzzled many. Even some army personnel looked at me with suspicions and some with astonishment.

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